fjords

Norway

I started this Europe trip in Scandinavia because Ben and I wanted to see the fjords of Norway. There was no direct flight from Hong Kong to Norway so we chose to fly to Denmark. From Copenhagen we flew to Bergen and that's where we started our six-day road trip through the fjords.

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To say that the sceneries are beautiful is an understatement. The giant mountains that tower above us, the vastness of valleys, the hairpin turns up and down the steeps of the mountains, the still turqoise waters that seem to make boats levitate, water streams free falling from the edges of mountain cliffs, the glaciers that sit on top on mountains crying as they melt in the summer heat, all left us in awe. I have questioned countless times, "how is this even real??" Photos don't even do it justice.

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When we planned our route we started off really clueless. Do a quick search online and you will find bloggers warning against Norwegian websites being very glitchy or being very ambiguous with their information. Their theory is that Norwegians are quiet people, like their peace and privacy, and are wealthy enough that they don't rely on tourism. They want tourists to stay out of their country (that is what I read, I can't verify that). I remember being on several websites and the glitchiness is just plain amusing. Imagine a map flashing like strobe lights then freezing your page or a panoramic photo spazzing like the camera is skydiving. What we did in the end was refer to other bloggers' suggested routes or dig through forum discussions.

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We picked all the main sites we wanted to see and activities we wanted to do and planned our route from there. Honestly it didn't matter which route you picked because the drive between points of interest were very scenic, one landscape after another, sometimes changing into a completely different scene as you turn into the next bend like you travelled to a different planet.

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On the day we flew into Bergen, we tried to take money from the ATM only to realize that the machines don't support the bank cards we own. Luckily they take credit card for any type of purchase or transaction like restaurants, convinience stores, hotels, gas, tolls, bus tickets, train tickets, etc. There were instances we're we had our fingers crossed hoping they would take card, like when we had to drive onto one of the ferries and weren't sure if they took cash or credit. Ben and I survived our nine days in Norway without any cash!

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Another thing we were really impressed with was the food in Norway. As most people may know I love bread especially sourdough. I don't understand how people complain about having bread at every meal when in Europe. Nine times out of ten the bread served to us was amazingly good; so fresh and moist in the center and crusty on the outside. The sourdough was almost always perfectly salted and came with fresh homemade butter. Enough of the bread, another staple was seafood. We were so worried about having salmon everyday that we avoided having salmon a week before our trip. We were so wrong about that because I think we only had salmon twice out of the whole nine days. We had fish and scallops and shrimp and were all extremely fresh. Of course we had non-seafood choices like chicken or beef, but the best dishes I thought were the fish soup and the mussels. 

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I made two best (food) discoveries in Norway: brown cheese and svele. Brown cheese, or brunost in Norwegian, is basically the whey from goat's or cow's milk boiled until the water is evaporated and the sugars caramelized. Strictly it isn't cheese, and it isn't savory like cheese. It comes in a block and you slice it with a special grater, the color and taste resembling of dulche de leche. You eat it with toast or waffles or pancakes.

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Svele is something we discovered towards the end of our road trip. It is pretty much a very fluffy pancake, and the reason for it's fluffiness is probably the kefir in it. Just like how the acid in buttermilk reacts with baking soda giving buttermilk pancakes its pillowy texture. We ate this folded in half with creamed butter and brown cheese. Apparently, you can only find this on the west side of Norway, so when we ended our trip in Oslo we couldn't find any!

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